Housing and Enclosure Requirements of the Palm Cockatoo

Palm cockatoos Probosciger aterrimus are generally housed in the same fashion as other psittacines in a typical parrot aviary, such as flight or suspended cages. For the physical and mental well being of these birds the cage size should allow adequate flight and recreation. The Palm Cockatoo SSP Management Group feels the minimum size aviary, which would accommodate their normal activities, is 2 meters wide by 3.3 meters long by 1.6 meters high (6' x 10' x 5'). This is a subjective view based on the group’s experience, not on any study, and is echoed by the following experts. Deifenbach (1985) states that "Basically, only a large, roomy aviary of stable construction is suitable for keeping these birds. Animals which are not kept in a well-planned flight often appear bored and listless. Kept in a large aviary they are in constant motion and exhibit their interesting behavioral repertoire..." and Forshaw (1981) states "A spacious aviary, not less than 16 m² in floor area, should be provided for each pair; in close confinement, the cockatoos become dull and listless." The management group feels the optimum would be any aviary larger than 2.6 m x 4 m x 2.6 m (8' x 12' x 8'). Although the smallest enclosure within which this species has reproduced is 1.3 m x 2.6 m x 1.3 m (4' x 8' x 4'), we do not encourage using any aviaries smaller than the minimum mentioned above in order to assure the birds’ well being. One institution has seen an increase in the number of new breeders when their pairs were moved from small cages to the larger size cages mentioned above.

Perches are necessary on both ends of the cage to allow adequate flight. Additional perches of various sizes and diameters from 5 cm to 10 cm (2" to 4") are recommended but should not obstruct flight space. A minimum width of 5 cm (2") is recommended for palm cockatoo perches. The perches should be low enough so that the birds’ crests do not touch the top of the enclosure, but kept generally to the upper part of the cage. Palm cockatoos seem to spend more time on the higher perches when given a choice. One perch can be made wide enough 10 cm to 30 cm (4" to 12") and long enough (at least one meter) to allow the male to strut and display. The strutting perch should be located away from human disturbance. A perch situated on end, such as a post, is also enjoyed by these birds.

Palm cockatoos have been housed and bred successfully in enclosures with cement and natural substrate and also in suspended cages. They seem to enjoy utilizing the earth substrate of flight cages; however, infectious and parasitic diseases can be a problem (See Chapter VII, Medical Management of the Adult Palm Cockatoo for additional details).

Twelve gauge wire is recommended to contain these birds due to a report that a palm cockatoo chewed through 14 gauge wire. Since all palm cockatoos are considered important, the management group recommends not taking any chances with the 14 gauge wire. When planning a palm cockatoo pen, consideration should be given to construction of a safety area at the door to prevent the birds from flying out when keepers enter the pen. Another safety aspect would be to double wire the pen to ensure flighted birds do not escape by chewing out of the exhibit.

Palm cockatoos appear to do best in outdoor exhibits, but are susceptible to the effects of cold weather below -4 °C (25 °F). An indoor heated area must be provided in locations where the ambient temperatures go below freezing for more than a day or two. Wind breaks and heat lamps may provide adequate protection for birds located in areas which experience freezing weather for less than 24 hour periods.

At least one area of the exhibit should be covered to provide the birds the opportunity to find shelter and shade. In very hot climates, it is important that these dark plumaged birds are able to get completely out of the sun. Misters or showers can also be provided during hot, dry weather.

Due to the shy nature of this species, it is best to house pairs away from other psittacines, especially macaws, and to limit human disturbance. Even though one institution has successfully bred palm cockatoos in a mixed exhibit (see next section) and another institution has bred palm cockatoos near other birds, the latter has found that some pairs start to reproduce only after being moved to private, more secluded aviaries. To minimize disturbance video cameras could be used to detect breeding behavior or parental neglect.

Catherine King from the Rotterdam Zoo relates that they have had a pair of palm cockatoos reproduce in a mixed exhibit. The following is her account:

"This pair is in an indoor, mixed, 16 m long, semi-circle enclosure with Long-billed corellas Cacatua t. tenurostris and Blue-eyed cockatoos Cacatua opthalmica as well as a few ground species (pheasant pigeons Otidiphaps nobilis, plover Vanellus spp., and beach stone curlews Burhinus magnirostris). A pair of Eclectus parrots Eclectus roratus were also in the cage; they were very happy there but they were quite dominant and were eventually removed. The keepers feel in retrospect that it may not have been necessary, but I think that it was probably wisest. The Long-billed cockatoos occasionally have a stand-off with the palm cockatoos if both want to sit on, or in, the same nestbox or tree but generally they are quite compatible. A pair of Yellow-tailed cockatoos Calyptorhynchus f. funereus was tried, but the male of this species was extremely aggressive to the male palm cockatoo, and the experiment lasted less than a day. The male palm cockatoo can become aggressive to other species, for example, the keepers introduced a new male Blue-eyed cockatoo to the enclosure when the palm chick was fledging - not a good idea. All the birds survived it but the male palm cockatoo went after that poor Blue-eyed cockatoo like a Kamakhazy pilot. He seemed never to forgive the Blue-eyed cockatoo for being in the wrong place at the wrong time, as out of six (3.3) Blue-eyed cockatoos housed in the cage over time, this was the only bird that the male palm cockatoo never accepted. No interactions to speak of occur between the palm cockatoos and the ground species. I was entirely against this multi-species idea with our precious palm cockatoos, but I have to say that with close monitoring it does work, and that the birds have quite a stimulating life. Not only because of the other species, but also because the size of the enclosure has made it possible to have a number of nest boxes, hollow trees (covered and not covered), thick ropes, branches to chew on, etc. that the birds really like. Rotterdam Zoo generally has a space shortage and this does allow each species much more room than they would have if they had to be individually housed. Some species in the enclosure, that did not breed previously, are breeding in this situation."

Catherine has since updated her account of this situation. She indicates that while the palm cockatoos were rearing their second chick, the male became so aggressive with the other parrot species that the corellas and blue-eyed cockatoos had to be removed.

Feed stations should always be located under shelter in an area that creates the least disturbance to the birds. The birds do not like going into a box-like feeder, but have accepted food bowls being placed inside a wire basket. Birds reach through a hole in the top of the basket to feed, but are unable to tip the bowl. (See Appendix 6, Basket diagram)

The Management Group recommends that fresh, clean water be given to palm cockatoos daily. Water has been provided in a variety of ways, from a standard water dish to a free flowing pond. Some palm cockatoos tend to tip and empty their water bowls, this should be considered when deciding upon a type to use. (See Appendix 6, Basket Design

Food and water bowls should be cleaned and disinfected once a day. Several varieties of disinfectants have been used, but bleach is probably sufficient. After washing the bowls, they should be soaked or dipped into the disinfectant solution. If the birds have access to food dropped to the floor of the cage, the food should be removed from the pen before it molds.

Nest boxes should be provided for breeding. If the cage is very large, two boxes can be used. More than two boxes may detract or confuse the pair, although the Rotterdam Zoo has had breeding from a pair with many nest boxes. Breeding success has been attained with an assortment of wooden nest box sizes. A rectangular box situated on end is the generally accepted type. Both open top boxes and boxes with large entrance holes, such as 30 cm (12") diameter, are used by palm cockatoos. These types allow the birds to drop nesting material into the box, which is an important breeding behavior. We recommend that the nest box be between 1 m to 1.3 m (3' to 4') deep. Any deeper may cause the birds to spend too much time filling the box with nesting material. Open top boxes, with a minimum 60 cm (2') of clearance to the top of the cage, have been the most successful. (See Appendix 1, Nest Box Examples)

Palm cockatoos create their own nesting material from soft branches such as eucalyptus, bamboo, acacia, and willow. The cockatoos will splinter the branches and take the pieces into the nest, as mentioned above. Branches can be given to the birds year round, but should at least be provided at the onset of the breeding season and at regular intervals until an egg has been laid. The birds may become frustrated if there are long periods when they do not have access to nesting material. In at least one instance, aggression to the female by the male was thought to be the result of this situation. A good rule of thumb is to give the birds new branches as soon as they finish the previous branches to ensure they have a constant supply.

Environmental enrichment has been defined as "additions to the enclosure that enable an animal to perform behavior patterns similar to that of wild con-specifics" (Catherine King, personal communication). The practice of supplying branches and providing a wide perch for male strutting or displaying behavior are two examples of environmental enrichment. Thick, natural fiber rope has also been used. The birds not only use the rope as a perch but also for grooming; they frequently rub their cheek patches on the rope. (Catherine King, personal communication)

For further information or comments, please contact Mike Taylor


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